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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.